Hong Kong - RyuGin

Updated February 20th 2015

 Monkfish liver from Hokkaido and Aka clam with spring onion in mustard miso sauce

 Simmered abalone with winter vegetables served with grated radish sauce

 Shiitake mushroom egg custard topped with Matsubagani crab

 Poached Gillardeau oyster and mashed turnip soup in winter style

 Assortment of sashimi

 Charcoal grilled Alfonsino served with crispy scales

 Wagyu ribeye sukiyaki with onsen tamago

  Premium sea urchin on steamed rice with simmered fresh seaweed

 Bottarga grey mullet roe on steamed rice with simmered fresh seaweed (for Bf who can't eat sea urchin)

 RyuGin Specialty -196C pear candy and +99C pear jam

 Deep fried spring roll, sweet red beans, strawberry, shiratama mochi

Date of visit: January 16th 2015

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Watari crab salad under chrysanthemum flowers

Enter the Autumn Forest - Simmered abalone, mushrooms, pine nuts on hot egg custard

Poached Gillardeau oyster wrapped with shabu-shabu Wagyu beef and grated celeriac jelly

Flavor of autumn - Charcoal grilled Matsutake mushroom in Ichibandashi soup

Assortment of sashimi

Slow cooked blue lobster and selection of vegetables with Manganji pepper flavoured sauce

Large eel grilled over Binchotan charcoal

Ikura salmon caviar and Kobashira on steamed rice

Tea before the dessert courses

RyuGin specialty -196C apple candy and +99C apple jam

Kyoho grapes and Nashi calpis jelly with sense of sudachi and shiso flower

Matcha to end the meal

RyuGin Hong Kong is the first overseas branch of RyuGin Japan. It offers only one menu, a kaiseki of ten courses that highlights fresh seasonal ingredients flown in from Japan daily. I enjoyed each delicious and unique dish, but I had a few favourites. One was the Gillardeau oyster wrapped in Wagyu beef (or Boyster, according to Bf). The “Boyster” was presented in its original shell and thoughtfully cut into two bite-sized pieces. The flavour of the sweet and tender beef was more pronounced in the beginning, while the brininess from the creamy oyster came after. The tangy celeriac added brightness, bringing the dish together. It was definitely a well-executed dish. I would’ve never thought beef and oyster could be eaten together, let alone be this delicious!

Another notable dish was the grilled eel. The skin was super crisp while the meat was kept soft and sweet, with a hint of smokiness. The glaze was not too sweet, which I liked. Hands down one of the best eel dishes I have ever had. I also loved the molecular gastronomy dessert, which was a candy “apple” filled with powdered liquid nitrogen apple ice cream and topped with piping hot apple jam. Hot, cold, crunchy and fluffy all at the same time!

A lot of fine-dining restaurants serve expensive ingredients, slap a hefty price tag on them, and leave it at that. At RyuGin, you are paying for the skill and technique, heart and soul the chef pours into executing each dish. He condenses and amplifies the flavours of the ingredients without overpowering your palate. The chef is able to create a symphony of flavours and textures that work so well together. This is the epitome of Japanese kaiseki.

Aside from the food, you get a stunning view of the harbour from 101/F while enjoying impeccable service. The dark decor and wooden panels that separate each table create an intimate dining experience. The staff was attentive and very knowledgeable about each dish, from the source of ingredients to cooking techniques. Portioning and timing were perfect. The dishes arrived at an appropriate speed and I didn't feel rushed or that they took too long. After the dessert courses I was perfectly satiated.

Note that the menu changes every few months, so some items pictured above may not be available. My visit was on October 3.

RyuGin
Address: 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Phone: 2302-0222
Hours: Mon-Sat 6pm-930pm, Sun 12pm-3pm, 6pm-930pm

Hong Kong - Mango Tree

Mango Tree (Elements location) is nestled between Miu Miu and Mikimoto at the far end of the mall, near ICC. We went there on a Saturday around noon without a booking and were seated immediately. The restaurant had a beautiful high ceiling and floor length windows which allowed a lot of natural light in. The furniture was mostly wood with silk accents, and the servers were dressed in traditional Thai clothing. For a moment I felt like I was in a resort restaurant in Phuket! That being said, Mango Tree is definitely more posh and pricier than most Thai restaurants in Hong Kong, but I think it is worth visiting for the quality of food, service and dining environment.

Thai Glass Noodle with Seafood: This dish was perfect to begin the meal with. The thin glass noodles were tossed with squid, shrimp, minced pork, onions, Thai celery and chili in a garlic-lime sauce. The combination of all the sharp and tangy flavours really opened up my taste buds. I loved the heat from the chilis and sweetness from the tomatoes. I only wish they gave us more glass noodles to mop up the delicious sauce.

Chicken in Pandan Leaves: I loved this dish. The chicken was marinated in garlic and herbs, wrapped in fresh pandan leaves then deep fried. The chicken was so moist and tender, and had absorbed all the lovely flavours from the marinade and pandan. The sweet sesame dipping sauce rounded out the smoky and slightly charred flavour of the chicken.

Crab Meat Yellow Curry in Crispy Bread: This hollowed bread was filled to the brim with succulent crab meat drowning in a rich yellow curry. The curry was divine. It was thick and creamy with a hint of umami from the crab and sweetened by coconut milk. It tasted almost buttery. There's probably a better way to eat this but when I tore into the bread for a piece, all the curry oozed out of the bread. It was quite messy to eat, but totally worth it! 

Verdict: There's something on the menu for everyone, whether you are a spice lover or not. The portions are great for sharing, so come with a group to make the most out of your meal. Service was attentive and the dishes arrived at an appropriate pace. I am definitely going back again for some gourmet Thai food.

I recommend: Chicken in Pandan Leaves, Crab Meat Yellow Curry in Crispy Bread

Mango Tree
Address: Shop 2032, 2/F, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
Phone: 2668-4884
Website: www.mangotree.com.hk